Seasoned to Taste: Pork Shoulder Braised with Dried Chiles

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What's in a name? Sometimes a boatload of confusion, particularly at the meat counter.

These days many of us are looking for alternative, more inexpensive cuts of meat. Like the flavorful, well marbled roast that comes from shoulder area of a hog — or should I say pig, or should I call it pork so we can mask the fact that we're eating swine?

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Whatever you want to call the critter it comes from, pork shoulder roasts are cut from the top portion of the front leg. Sounds simple enough, until you go to the grocery and are confronted with labels and signs that read "Boston butt" or "fresh pork butt."  This can't be right, right? A butt must be from the other end of the pig.

But, in fact, this butt has nothing to do with porcine posteriors. The National Pork Board offers this explanation: "It is said that in pre-revolutionary New England and during the Revolutionary War, some pork cuts (not those highly valued, or ‘high on the hog,’ like loin and ham) were packed into casks or barrels (also known as ‘butts’) for storage and shipment. The way the hog shoulder was cut in the Boston area became known in other regions as ‘Boston butt,’ based on the idea that better quality meat is found on the upper parts of a hog." The pork pros go on to note, "The name ‘Boston butt’ is not used in Boston but is used in other parts of the U.S."  Sometimes the cut is referred to as "Boston blade roast," and at least the blade reference offers a little hint that most of us would connect with "shoulder."

Regardless what you call it, this cut can be "meltingly tender" and definitely delicious if cooked long and slow.

Our friend Rebecca had great success with Alice Waters' recipe that braises pork what's-its-name with dried chiles, herbs and vegetables. This flexible formula can be expanded for a crowd. Rebecca notes: "I used a 7-pound shoulder, which turned out just fine," but a larger cut is a little more challenging to turn over.

Pork shoulder or butt is comparatively cheap, as in inexpensive, not shoddy or of poor quality. Its higher fat content makes it more flavorful, and if you skim the fat from the roasting liquid before serving you can cut the cholesterol content considerably.

Succulent slices of seasoned shoulder slathered in sauce — this recipe is so flavorful you'll feel like you're living "high on the hog."  And best of all, you can do so at down-to-earth prices!

Pork Shoulder Braised with Dried Chiles

1 tablespoon salt

1/4 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram or oregano

1 teaspoon ground ancho chile

4-pound, bone-in pork shoulder roast, trimmed of excess fat 

2 onions, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped

3 dried ancho chiles, split and seeds removed

1 dried chipotle chile, split and seeds removed

1 large head of garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped

A few black peppercorns

A few fresh marjoram or oregano sprigs

2 cups chicken broth (or water)

Make a dry rub by mixing salt, pepper, herbs and chile together. Add garlic and olive oil to rub if using. Rub this on the roast to season, the day before if possible. Cover and refrigerate until 1 hour before cooking.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Put vegetables, dried chiles, garlic, peppercorn and herb sprigs in a heavy baking dish or roasting pan that just fits the roast.  Place the seasoned meat on top of the vegetables and pour in broth (or water).

Check the level of the liquid; it should reach about one quarter of the way up the roast. Add more if needed. Cook in the oven for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Turn the roast over and cook for 30 minutes, then turn again. Check the level of liquid every once in a while, adding more broth or water if it gets too low. Cook for another 30 minutes and test the meat for doneness, continuing to turn and cook until done. Remove the meat from the pan. Strain the sauce and skim well. Pass the vegetables through a food mill and return to the skimmed sauce. Remove the bones, slice the meat and arrange on a warm platter. Serve with the sauce poured over or pass it around in a pitcher or sauceboat.

Variations: 

* Use any combination of dried chile varieties. 

* Sprinkle with chopped fresh marjoram or oregano before serving. 

* Pound 4 garlic cloves and stir into the dry rub with 2 teaspoons olive oil. Rub this on the roast to season

Source: Alice Waters, “The Art of Simple Food”

Lynne Ireland lives to eat and welcomes comments and questions from others who do (or don't). Contact her at savor@journalstar.com.