Crabby Bill's Seafood Shack
By JEFF KORBELIK / Lincoln Journal Star
Finally, Lincoln has another seafood restaurant.
The Star City has been without one to rival Red Lobster since Charlie’s closed several years ago.
And, no, Long John Silvers doesn’t count.
803 Q St.
Atmosphere: Casual
Specialty: Seafood
Payment: Cash, major credit cards; no checks
Cost: Entrees, $12.95 to $38.95; sandwiches, $6.95 to $8.95
Hours: 4-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 4-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday
Phone: (402) 435-3888
Notes: On-street parking, takeout, alcohol
Food: 3 stars
Atmosphere: 3 stars
Service: 3 stars
Vegetarian friendly: 1 star
The Last Bite: Lincoln finally has another restaurant specializing in seafood, and it's a pretty good one. Crabby Bill's offers a variety of seafood entrees, including scallops, shrimp, lobster, crab and more.
Rating system: Excellent 4 stars; Good 3 stars; Fair or uneven 2 stars; Poor 1 star
Several fine restaurants have seafood on the menu, but none specialize in it.
“That was part of the thinking,” said Bill Whitley, who co-owns the new Crabby Bill’s Seafood Shack in the Haymarket.
“We’re filling a niche.”
Thank goodness. Lincoln diners can enjoy such seafood dishes as Chilean sea bass, Canadian walleye, King crab legs, bourbon glazed salmon and barbecued shrimp.
Crabby Bill’s opened Oct. 3 in Arturo’s location at Eighth and Q streets.
The restaurant is owned and operated by the people behind Vincenzo’s, the Haymarket restaurant boasting some of the best Italian cuisine in the city.
Owners are Whitley, Mike Frank, Mark Johnson and Steve Nagle, who’s been Vincenzo’s executive chef for 14 years. The chef is Perry Kudlacek, who comes to Bill’s by way of the Yankee Hill and Hillcrest country clubs.
The concept is Frank’s, whose father retired in the Florida Keys years ago and was active in bill fishing.
Frank spent a great deal of time with his father and grew fond of the fun, very casual old Florida crab shacks that are so popular in the the Keys and throughout South Florida.
“We’ve knocked around the idea in our heads for a couple of years now,” Whitley said.
And when the Arturo’s space became available …
“It seemed to be a great fit,” he said.
The owners kept Arturo’s layout the same, with booths along the east and west walls, tables down the middle and the bar in the back. It’s even using some of Arturo’s tables and chairs.
The decor reflects its seafood theme, with blue paint, a bunch of angling photos and a few giant fish mounted on the walls. It’s quite casual, right down to Jimmy Buffet crooning from the sound system.
The menu, in addition to seafood appetizers and entrees, features several non-seafood items such as a 12-ounce pork chop ($12.95), 8-ounce flat iron steak ($12.95), a grilled chicken sandwich ($6.95) and an 8-ounce cheeseburger ($6.95).
“If you come in with a group, there are some people who don’t care for seafood,” Whitley said. “We wanted to offer something for those people.”
Mainly, though, it’s about the seafood, which Crabby Bill’s is bringing in fresh every other day from a variety of vendors, including the Seattle Fish Company.
I took my best friend and his family out for a Sunday dinner and we came away impressed.
We started with some fried oysters ($6.95), served with a cocktail sauce.
For entrees, we tried the Chilean sea bass ($23.95) in a pineapple cream sauce, seared sea scallops topped with a Pernod butter sauce ($16.95), broiled shrimp in a garlic, butter and citrus sauce ($14.95) and the steamed shellfish pot, featuring mussels, shrimp, clams and crab in white wine, garlic and butter ($20.95).
Each entree comes with salad and choice of sailor spuds (au gratin-type potato), French or sweet potato fries.
All four entrees are must-tries, especially the extremely tender and juicy sea bass and scallops.
The shellfish pot, Whitley said, has been a customer favorite, as has been the fried seafood platter (shrimp, tilapia, soft-shelled crab and oysters, $16.95) and the barbecued shrimp ($14.95).
Crabby Bill’s did have a few things surprisingly missing from its menu. Among them, fish and chips, calamari and fried clams. Whitley said they are in the process of tinkering with the offerings.
The sides were disappointing. The fries were thinly cut and came out of the kitchen cold. And the sailor spuds were nothing to write home about as well. I also would have liked a clam chowder — New England and/or Manhattan — as a menu and side option.
The entrees, however, were exceptional. I’m quite pleased Lincoln has another restaurant specializing in seafood. You will be too.
Reach Jeff Korbelik at 473-7213 or jkorbelik@journalstar.com.

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